Most custom apparel orders don't go wrong on the press. They go wrong in the inbox — with a logo pulled off a website, a screenshot of an Instagram post, or a file nobody can open. Artwork problems are the number one cause of delays, surprise fees, and prints that don't match your brand. Here's exactly what your printer needs, and why.
Vector vs. Raster: The Only File Lesson That Matters
Every image file is one of two types. Vector files are built from math — lines, curves, and shapes. They scale from a business card to a billboard with zero quality loss. Common vector formats: AI, EPS, SVG, and PDF (when saved from vector software). Raster files are built from pixels — tiny colored squares. Enlarge them too far and they turn blocky and blurred. Common raster formats: JPG, PNG, TIFF, and GIF.
For screen printing, vector is king. Each color in your design gets burned onto its own screen, and crisp vector edges produce crisp prints. If you have your logo as an AI, EPS, or SVG file, send that. When is raster acceptable? For DTG printing (direct-to-garment), a high-resolution PNG works well. Photo-style designs and complex gradients generally go DTG or DTF, not traditional screen print.
Resolution: 300 DPI at Actual Print Size
If all you have is a raster file, resolution decides whether it's usable. The rule: 300 DPI (dots per inch) at the size it will actually print. A chest logo printing 10 inches wide needs to be 3,000 pixels wide. What doesn't work: a logo pulled from your website (typically 72 DPI — fine on screen, mush on fabric), a screenshot (low-resolution by definition), or an image that's "big on my phone" (screen display size has nothing to do with print resolution).
What File Format Should You Send?
Ranked from best to worst for screen printing: 1. AI or EPS — native vector, the gold standard. 2. PDF — excellent, as long as it was exported from vector software. 3. SVG — true vector, works great. 4. PNG at 300 DPI — fine for DTG or simple one-color designs. 5. JPG at 300 DPI — usable, but no transparency. 6. Anything from a Word doc, PowerPoint, or screenshot — start over. When in doubt, send everything you have.
Brand-Color Matching: Pantone Is Your Friend
The red on your screen is not the red on the shirt. Monitors display RGB; printers work in ink. For screen printing, brand colors are matched using the Pantone Matching System (PMS) — numbered ink colors your printer mixes to spec. Ink looks different on different garment colors; DTG uses CMYK process color which can't hit every Pantone exactly; embroidery thread comes from fixed manufacturer color cards. None of this is a problem as long as it's discussed before printing — which is what the proof is for.
The Proof-Approval Process (Don't Skip This)
A proof is a digital mockup showing your design on the actual garment. 1. Check the spelling first. Then check it again. 2. Verify placement and size. 3. Confirm the colors. 4. Check the garment details. 5. Approve in writing (email is fine). Changes after you approve the proof can mean new screens, new costs, and a reset production clock. Also know: custom apparel is made to order, so all sales are final once production begins — no refunds. The proof is your protection. Use it.
"I Only Have a JPG" — Your Options
Ask your designer for the original vector files; have it redrawn (most shops offer vectorization — ask upfront what it costs); or rebuild it if it's simple text. What you shouldn't do: send the 72-DPI JPG and hope for the best.
The Bottom Line
Send vector files when you have them. Make sure raster files are 300 DPI at print size. Supply Pantone numbers for brand colors. And review your proof like your money depends on it — because it does. Ordering custom apparel in Miami-Dade? Send us whatever artwork you have — we'll tell you within the hour what's usable and exactly what your order will cost. Call (786) 540-3020.